Wome's guide: Kasım 2013

12 Kasım 2013 Salı

STICK ‘EM UP: DIY MAGNETIC MAKEUP ORGANIZER

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CONTOURING AND HIGHLIGHTING FOR DARK SKIN

One of the essential techniques to learn for any makeup application is contouring—and although it seems intimidating at first, it’s actually fairly easy to master. We recently covered contouring basics, but now we have remixed that article to share some tips and product recommendations for those with darker skin tones.

“When you contour, the underlying idea is the same, no matter what skin tone you’re working with,” says Los Angeles–based makeup artist Brande Bytheway. The end goal? “Contouring is all about playing up your natural features,” says Brande, who recommends practicing and playing around to discover what works on your particular face.

To recap, there are two main techniques in contouring: lowlighting and highlighting. Lowlighting refers to using a darker color wherever there’s an area of the face or feature you want to recede or de-emphasize. Highlighting is the opposite: using lighter colors on areas you want to emphasize or bring forward.

Here’s how to perform basic contouring and highlighting on the cheeks, eyes, and nose, plus product picks! As Brande notes, AJ Crimson’s line of makeup offers a really wide range of foundation shades and BBs to fit most any skin tone.

Cheeks

If you’re a beginner, try out the technique on the cheeks first—it’s really simple. For this look, we started with a clean base using AJ Crimson BB+D cream in Shade 7. Then, using a medium angle brush, we applied Inglot Eye Shadow #63 AMC, a matte shade, on the hollow of the cheeks (or right underneath the cheekbone). That’s the lowlight, and every time you do a lowlight, you want to balance with a highlight. In this case, we used Inglot AMC Multicolour Bronzing Powder #87 along the cheekbones to bring them forward.

If you’re adding luminizer on dark skin, Brande suggests a bronze-based product like this, rather than something pearl-based. “This will give you more of overall natural glow. If you’re color is too pearly, on dark skin, it can look like you have a line of frost,” she says. Brande also noted AJ Crimson’s wide range of foundation and BB shades. “The range is wide enough that almost any skin tone will find something that works,” she says.

Nose

Here, we did light contouring on the nose, using the same lowlight and highlight shades we used on the cheeks (see above) Starting at the inner corner of the brow, we brushed a small amount of the lowlight shadow along both sides of the nose. Then we applied the highlight down the bridge of the nose. To finish, we blended the two together with a clean brush.

Eyes

Contouring and highlighting the eyes can really make them pop. For this look, we started with Inglot Eye Shadow #327 and Inglot AMC Pressed Powder in 68 as the lowlight, applying it into the crease and blending well. Then, we countered that with a highlight brushed right along the brow bone—we used blended two shades here, Inglot Eye Shadow #312 and #405. We finished the eyes with Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ebony on brows.

For darker skin, Brande suggests choosing a highlight shade that has yellow or orange in it. “If you pick a product with too much of a cool undertone,” she explains, “it can look ashy once it oxidizes, as though it’s floating on top of the complexion. A peachy shade like Inglot’s #312 works well on dark tones, because it will blend in and give you a nice bright pop,” she says.

Finishing Touches

To complete the look, we added cream highlighter (Luminize from Too Faced’s Natural Face Palette) to the higher plans of the face—the cheekbones, brow ridge, and down the bridge of nose. Lastly, we layered Inglot Lipstick #410 under Too Faced Summer Sun Shines Lip Gloss in Papaya Slushie on the lips. Done!

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HOW TO PREVENT (OR CONCEAL) THAT LITTLE RED SUNGLASSES MARK

In the summertime, most of us don’t set foot outdoors without a big pair of sunnies. But nothing undermines all that glamour and sun protection (not to mention a perfect makeup job) like that telltale red patch that often pops up on the bridge of your nose! Depending on your facial structure and the shape of your glasses, there may be little you can do to avoid those red patches, says celebrity makeup artist Julianne Kaye. Here are her best camouflage tips.

Let Skin Recover

If you can, try removing your sunglasses a few minutes before your arrival (to a meeting, dinner, wherever). That’ll help any indentation or redness subside.

Touch-Up When You Arrive

Another easy trick? “Don't powder that area of your face until you reach your destination,” advises Kaye. This helps keep your makeup from getting cakey. Instead, leave the bridge of your nose bare during your morning routine, and then after you get where you’re going, gently pat on concealer with your fingertip.

Bring Portable Products

“Urban Decay makes a concealer pencil that's creamy but dries matte, so it's perfect for this situation on the go!" says Kaye. The ultra-portability and precision of this pencil makes it an ideal everyday makeup bag staple. Finish with a quick press of translucent powder or powder foundation with the included puff or sponge (try Too Faced Amazing Face Powder). If you’re feeling a little too “made up,” spritz with a setting spray for a more dewy complexion (try Evian Facial Spray or MAC Mineralize Charged Water Skin Hydrating Mist). Voila! Keep rocking those shades, and nobody will be the wiser.

MONDAY DIY MANI, INSPIRED BY THE PRABAL GURUNG SPRING 2014 RUNWAY

Can we talk about Prabal Gurung SS14? The collection that hit the runway last week at New York Fashion Week was like a pastel-Barbie look back at the 1950s, complete with brightly dyed satins cut into high-waisted skirts and fitted jackets. What really blew our minds, however, were the cat-eye sunglasses shown with several of the looks—each bright-white pair trimmed in a vibrant color to coordinate with the clothes (a favorite is this red ensemble!). Inspired by the colors and shapes of these way-out shades, we came up with this easy DIY nail art. If you, like us, can't wait until spring, it's a little way to seize the runway now.

You will need

• quick-dry base coat and top coat (we like Get It On and Wicked Fast from Cult Nails)
• Scotch tape
• paper hole reinforcement labels (available at office supply stores)
• nail polish in white and black, plus bright accent shades: cherry red, lilac purple, yellow, electric blue, neon green

1: Start with clean nails, and apply base coat. Let dry completely.

2: Apply a paper hole reinforcement label to the center of each nail. Using the white nail polish, paint 2 coats on the tip of each nail along the top of each reinforcement sticker to create a french tip. Peel reinforcement labels off carefully and allow white polish to dry completely before moving on to step 3.

3: Place a piece of scotch tape at alternating slants on each nail, creating a space at the end of each nail. Using a different color on each finger, paint the tips green, yellow, red, blue, and purple. Repeat on the other hand.

4: Remove scotch tape and finish with top coat to lock in the look.

Have you done any nail art inspired by NYFW runways? Post pics in the comments!

HOW TO SCULPT YOUR FACE LIKE KIM KARDASHIAN

When it comes to the Kardashians, you either love 'em or hate 'em. But if there's one thing most people can agree on, it's that Kim K. has a team of top-notch artists working on her look. Known for having some of the most sought-after smokey eyes in the business and perfectly contoured cheekbones, Kim's glamorous makeup is always on point. Even if you don't have her budget, you can recreate similar effects at home. Here, Wayne Goss, the makeup artist turned YouTube star—whose line of makeup brushes is launching exclusively in our shop this month—shows us how. This tutorial finds Goss sharing a customizable face-sculpting trick he learned 12 years ago.

Have you ever wondered if, depending on your skin tone, it makes more sense for you to contour or highlight? Find out at 2:47 in this tutorial, which happens to be one of Wayne's all-time favorite videos.

Don't forget to check out the lookbook and pre-order your brushes here. Wayne Goss, The Collection launches September 24, exclusively on Beautylish!

CUTICLE TATTOOS! A NEW WAY TO DRESS UP YOUR NAILS

Remember the days of plain–color manicures that chipped in less than a week? Yeah, neither do we. We're now in an era when the term "nail art" is searched 2.5 million times a month on Google. The nail industry has come a long way since then—celebrities are embracing nail art and blogs, showcasing innovative designs that have popped up across the web. While celebs and bloggers and Instagram have all had a major impact on the growth of the industry, we can't give them all the credit. Nail products themselves have also been improving, with brands releasing polishes in new formulas and every texture imaginable at a breakneck pace (some 50 brands now offer a version of gel polish, for instance).

It's an exciting time for nails! But with that said, the nail art market has become a little crowded. So when something original comes across our desks, we take notice. One recent example: cuticle tattoos! Rad Nails, a popular online nail decal shop that has already partnered with Zooey Deschanel, recently released cuticle and nail "tattoos."

Essentially, they're temporary tattoos designed to fit your cuticles and nail beds. The effect is cool and eye-catching—if you have a polish color you really love, the tattoos are a good way to draw attention to it and show it off. There are four different shapes, each available in 20-packs that go for $6. Here we used "Your Point" (pointy nested triangles).

Rad Nails Beyond Cuticle with RGB Nail Polish in Pool

The tattoos are fairly easy to apply. After trimming them to fit and peeling off the plastic, you place the decal on your finger (paper side up), add a dab of water, press it into the cuticle area, and that’s it! The only tricky part is that the paper the decals come on is thick, so it can be difficult to see through and get them center-aligned perfectly. Still, after trying them on both the cuticles and inverted onto the nails, paired with some of our favorite nail colors of the moment, we're on board! We love the final effect and think they're a great option for changing up your mani in an unexpected way.

What do you think? Would you try cuticle tattoos?

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR MAKEUP BRUSHES

We turned to Katrine Lieberkind a Danish-born, L.A.-based makeup artist to learn how to properly clean our makeup brushes! You might remember her as Billy B.’s on-set assistant from our June profile. A makeup artist with a busy schedule like Kat has to stay on her toes, cleaning brushes quickly and effectively between clients. When we heard how passionate she was about Parian Spirit’s brush cleaner, we knew we had to start carrying it in our boutique, because Lieberkind knows her stuff!

Kat took some time out of her action-packed day to tell us why she loves the brush cleaner and to teach us her favorite brush cleaning techniques.

Why Parian Spirit?

I like Parian Spirit Brush cleaner because it cleans my brushes better—it even gets out latex/eyelash glue from the brush! It also contains natural citrus oils that condition the brushes. I get so many compliments on the way my brushes smell, and to me the citrus-y scent also signals that they are disinfected and ready to go.

Some brush cleaners are more watery, and that means it takes longer for the brushes to dry. When I have several looks to do, or when I am assisting, it is important for me that my brushes dry quickly.

How to Clean Your Brushes

Because this cleaner removes glue, I don’t recommend soaking brushes. The bristles are glued inside the brush, so soaking could dissolve the adhesive.

LARGE BRUSHES

Cleaning powder makeup brushes is best with spray

Separate out the big fluffy powder brushes and blush brushes from the rest. I use the Parian Spirit 2 oz. spray bottle on these, spraying the bristles and brushing them against a paper towel until it is clean.

For a deeper clean, pour a little brush cleaner into the lid of the Parian Spirit jar and dip the tip of the powder brush into the liquid, gently twirling the brush in the cleaner. The capillary action of the bristles will pull the cleaner into the brush without having to immerse the whole brush into the liquid. Gently wipe dry with a paper towel.

SMALLER BRUSHES

I clean the smaller brushes with the Parian Spirit Jar, using the little net inside of it. Fill the jar a little above the net and dip the dirty brushes into the liquid, gently brushing against the net.

The cool thing about this is that because of the netting, pigment comes out easily. So, when I go to clean the next brush, the pigment has settled to the bottom of the jar. I wipe off the liquid on the inside of the jar (like with nail polish) and wipe them gently on paper towel.

I usually reshape small, fluffy brushes (like eyeshadow brushes) into their proper form while they are still moist, so when they dry, they are like new. After you are done, you can put the lid on the jar and use the same liquid later. It evaporates a little, so just add a small amount of extra brush cleaner liquid when using next time.

BEYOND SANITIZING

I use Parian Spirit Brush cleaner between each model, of course, but every so often I also shampoo my brushes and use a little bit of hair conditioner in the big soft powder brushes. Shampooing your brushes will not disinfect them, so I ALWAYS use Parian first.

Even if you only use your brushes on yourself, I still recommend that you disinfect your brushes. Creamy makeup left in brushes can grow germs that can cause your skin to break out. Also, powder brushes will pick up sebum from your skin. In addition, I find that brushes stay more "new" when you take good care of them, which makes for an easier application and a better result.

POST-CLEANING CLEANUP

When it is time to discard the brush cleaner in the jar, use paper towels to soak up the liquid and wipe out the pigment.

The towel will absorb your brush cleaner

How do you like to clean your makeup brushes? If you have a favorite brush cleaning tip or brush cleaner you like to use most be sure to let us know in the comments. Happy brush cleaning!

SIMPLE HALLOWEEN LOOK! WEEPING NUN MAKEUP

Okay, okay, we had to. When it came to picking this year’s Halloween tutorials, we couldn’t help but nod toAmerican Horror Story, one of the most crazy-fun, frightening things you can watch these days. This character haunted us from posters and other promo materials for the FX show’s second season, Asylum, which aired in 2013. The image of a white-faced nun weeping black tears stuck with us all year long, so we decided to re-create the look and show you the steps. Grab a habit and follow along! Just remember, use only products that are safe for the skin and eyes.

You Will Need

nontoxic glue stick (like Elmer’s), translucent loose powder, white face makeup, white face powder, red gel eyeliner, red eye shadow, black eyeliner, latex sponge, makeup brushes, small spatula

Steps

1: First, you’ll cover up your eyebrows. The trick? Use a spatula to scoop and apply glue from a nontoxic glue stick over brows. We used Elmer’s Washable Disappearing Purple Glue Sticks (the product dries completely clear, so you’ll know when it’s dry).

2: Blend in and make sure all the hairs are pushed down and as smooth as possible—you want to mask all the texture. Let dry.

3: Dip brush in translucent loose powder and brush over eyebrows. If you see any stray hairs, apply another layer of glue.

4: Next, cover the entire face, lips, and neck. with white makeup or face paint. To get full coverage, use a latex sponge. You can use the sponge to cover everything, but if you’re working on someone else, you may prefer to use a brush under the eyes to get closer to the lash line, suggests makeup artist Brande Bytheway.

5: To set the paint, use white face powder (rather than the translucent loose powder) because it gives more coverage. Pour a bit of the powder onto the back of your hand, dip a brush in it, shake off the excess, and then apply all over the face, eyelids, neck, and lips.

6: Dip an angled brush into a red gel eyeliner to tightline the eyes (line between the lash line rather than the skin above the lashes). Lift lashes up and fill in the gaps between the lash hairs—try to get as close to the root as possible. Follow our tutorial here, and be gentle!

7: Use eye shadow in a similar red shade to help blend the color out.

8: Apply a black eyeliner to the water line. Add a thick layer of black below the eyes as pictured, painting on drops in different lengths down the face (We used Kryolan Aquacolor in 071 because it’s safe to use around the eyes and dries on the skin.)

9: Touch up the neck with white face paint.

What we used: Inglot Cosmetics Translucent Loose Powder in 218, Inglot Cosmetics AMC Eyeliner Gel in 72,Inglot Cosmetics Freedom System Eye Shadow in 382 Matte, Kryolan Aquacolor in 071, Inglot Cosmetics Kohl Pencil, Mehron Clown White, Ben Nye Super White Face Powder, Cover FX #140 Powder Brush, Anastasia Angled Cut Brush Small, Billy B Beauty Paint Brush 5

What are your favorite TV-inspired costume ideas? Share below!